The terrible, horrible, no good, very bad ICW trip

After all of our hard work and successful boat projects, Capt. Mike and I were feeling pretty proud of ourselves, and happy to have untied the lines a few days ahead of our 1 Nov goal. Our trip from Brunswick to Stuart, FL started out great with a peaceful anchorage at Cumberland Island and a celebratory glass of tawny port, thanks to our friends Ann and Frank 🥂

We arrived in St Augustine in time on a Friday afternoon to pick up our sails from the Irish Sail Lady’s loft before she closed for the weekend. A sailing couple we’d never met before offered to pick us up with the sails and drive us back to the marina – how nice is that? But then things went downhill… Capt. Mike got sick in St Augustine and spent a few days laid up on the boat. We had to cancel our plans to meet friends over the weekend and it was days before he felt well enough to put the sails back up. We extended our stay on a ball in St Augustine Municipal Marina until he felt better and finally continued south – then things really got dicey!

Timing the bascule bridges on the ICW

Anchored in Rockhouse Creek, I guess we got a bit too complacent about our beast of an anchor. We had motored down the ICW from sunrise to sunset, dropped anchor, and I quickly wrangled up a pasta dinner. Just as we started to relax and eat, the anchor alarm blared. Sometimes it’s a false alarm, but not this time – the track of our boat on the little display map was showing a long straight line outside the circle and off to the edge of the screen. Yikes! We were dragging! We rushed back out to the cockpit, started the motor and had to figure out how to re-anchor in the dark without running around on all the shoals and sandbars around us. The anchor had somehow fouled the shaft in its own anchor chain, all wrapped around itself as tidal current fought against wind direction, creating a real mess to put to rights in the dark.

After an uneasy night of sleeping with one ear open for the alarm to go off again, we continued south, finally in a wide enough section of the ICW that we could put out some sail. Winds were about 25 kts from the north and it was a bit rough, even inside the ICW. At one point I heard Capt. Mike say “Huh.” and when I gave him a questioning look, he said “look near the top of the mainsail and tell me what you see.” I said, “I see daylight coming through. That’s not good.” Remember I mentioned picking up our newly repaired sails in St Augustine? Well just a couple of days later and on our first time using them, we’d ripped our main.

We also had a tough time with the bridges on the Daytona Beach section of the ICW. Fixed bridges are supposed to be 65 feet high to accommodate most masts. But with king tides and winds from the north, water was stacking up in this long section with little access to inlets to the sea. We saw bridge boards reading as low as 61 to 62 feet. We aren’t completely comfortable yet with exactly how high our mast is, especially once you factor in the wind instruments and VHF radio antenna. Other sailboats hailed us on the radio and told us they planned to anchor north of the Seabreeze bridges until high tide. We anchored too, to look at the tide tables and to estimate our mast height. With low tide not until 11:30 at night, we decided to go for it anyway, putting out sails to heel us over as much as possible to get a little extra room. We made it, but it made for a nerve wracking day, and we later learned that one of the two anchored boats at Seabreeze damaged their forestay on one of the bridges and had to haul out for repairs.

My notes on a long day of low bridges

I “celebrated” my birthday on this section of the ICW when we anchored near the Ft Pierce inlet. The Captain surprised me with a margarita after we anchored and I sipped it while reading a book as Capt. Mike got ready to test the new watermaker for the first time. He started the generator, started the water maker, and cheered “It’s working! It’s working!” Then as he came up to the cockpit to celebrate, he changed his tune to “Wait. What’s that horrible burning smell? Shut it all down!” After some investigation, he found a seriously melted part on our nearly new generator. He spent the rest of my birthday evening in the cockpit lazarette grumbling about how he was just going to stay there and cry 😭

The melted generator part

We limped the rest of the way to Stuart, FL the next day, attempting to troubleshoot our autopilot. It worked pretty well to turn it on, set a course heading, and to let the autopilot take the helm. But every time we tried to go back to standby and take control away from the autopilot, it wouldn’t give up control easily. Whoever was at the helm would have no control of the wheel for some time between two seconds and fifteen seconds until the clutch would finally release and give us control. That might not sound like a lot of time but if there’s a fast boat coming toward you, or if you are heading outside the dredged channel toward a shoal, it feels like forever. Add that to the list of things we’ll have to repair before leaving Florida for The Bahamas.

Making a box for the autopilot arm
Bringing the box to UPS

So in about a week we went from thinking we were done with all our boat projects and just needed to wait for a weather window to cross to the Bahamas, to having a long list of expensive repairs that all felt like must-dos before leaving the States. Sigh. I know. “That’s boat life.” But somehow it felt pretty depressing. At least we are more in a safe place with lots of marine services and the ability to order parts. I’m sure it’ll all look better soon.

Safe on a mooring ball at Sunset Bay Marina

The full boat project list – summer 2023

I haven’t been posting many “Keeping it real – life in the boat yard” blog posts recently. Let’s face it, they are kind of a downer. Plus, you don’t really want to see my sweaty, shiny face beaming at you, covered in yard dirt and anti-foul paint, do you? 🥵 But that doesn’t mean we haven’t been hard at work getting SV Happy ready to hit the high seas this winter! Her previous owners took excellent care of her, but she wasn’t outfitted for life on the hook so we had lots to do there, and just to turn her into a comfortable floating home 🏡

Capt. Mike kicked butt in the spring and got a ton of projects finished between when we moved aboard Happy in late March to when we left Stuart, FL in late April:

  • Installed 600 watts of solar panels
  • New 85 pound Mantus anchor
  • New dinghy davits
  • Antifoul paint on the hull and prop, with new zincs
  • Rebuilt the propane system: lines, regulator, solenoid
  • Applied mast boot tape to address a water leak
  • Fixed water leak in propane locker
  • Waterproofed the Bimini and dodger
  • New led light in the galley
  • New filters for the drinking water filtration system
  • Troubleshooting the wind instruments
  • Fixed drawer latches
  • New shower head
  • Started fixing the portlight leaks… More to follow!

We were feeling pretty good about our progress when we left Happy at Brunswick Landing Marina for a couple months this summer. But after our mountain and cycling summer vacation, we had to go back to work – and in crazy Georgia heat and humidity 🔥 We definitely didn’t feel like we were having as much fun as other residents of the marina.

One of our biggest projects was removing all of the portlights (aka boat windows), scraping and cleaning them, and rebedding. In Florida spring thunderstorms, we had water running down the inside of the salon “walls” and collecting inches of water in our drip cups. We decided to repair all the portlights, even the ones without visible leaks, after Capt. Mike installed a light in the galley and water streamed out of the screw holes, implying that some of the leaks were occurring between the hull and the lining. Each portlight took about 8 hours to address – removing with razor blades and pry bars, scraping old caulk and silicon off the stainless, cleaning, rebedding with new caulk, and cleaning the excess that squirted out during the process.  

Then the biggest boat project we’ve ever taken on ourselves – installing a high volume water maker / desalinator. A bigger boat means more room for systems and having a virtually unlimited supply of fresh water will be a game changer for our cruising life. But first – we’ve got to get the thing to work! We ordered a Seawater Pro 40 gallons-per-hour system, and it was delivered as a big heavy box of parts and a link to a bunch of You Tube videos. Gulp.

Capt Mike had to figure out where to locate the components of the system (long membranes, water filters, high pressure pump, boost pump, and control panel), and how to connect to the plumbing and electrical systems. At one point, he got frustrated and told me to watch the videos and help him figure out the electrical. I watched each video three times, took pages of notes, and finally announced my findings “They don’t tell you how to connect to the generator and to the boost pump!” Capt. Mike confirmed “That’s exactly my point” 🤦‍♀️ Luckily, they have excellent customer service and tech support and a couple of phone calls gave us enough info to move forward. It took about a month in total to complete this install, with Capt. Mike contorting his body into every tight hold on the boat. We think he’s got it done! Now to anchor in a place with clean ocean water to test it all out! 

Here’s the rest of the project list completed between August and November 2023:

  • Rebed 14 portlights
  • Install watermaker
  • New batteries (house battery bank, starter battery, and bow thruster battery)
  • Rebuilt aft head (toilet) pump, replace aft head sink hose
  • Added a macerator pump to the aft holding tank
  • New running rigging, with new eye splices
  • New dock lines, anchor snubber, anchor bridle, and splices
  • Install Victron Bluetooth battery monitor
  • Brought all three sails to a sail loft for inspection and repairs
  • Recaulked both heads and the galley
  • Caulked a leak in the forward head fan
  • Installed lights in the anchor locker, main cabin closet, and fixed existing light switches

We’re exhausted and our bank accounts are a bit lighter, but we’re ready to get out there and start cruising!