Our summer home in Brunswick, Georgia

Our jaunt on the ICW ended a few miles up the Brunswick River at the Brunswick Landing Marina. Our boat will stay here, in a slip in the marina, for all of hurricane season while Mike and I will also do some land travel.

Brunswick is a large, lovely marina with a strong sense of community. Our dock fees here include laundry, the use of shared bikes and gas grills, and access to the club house with its frequent cruiser happy hours. It’s just a short walk to historic downtown Brunswick with some good restaurants, lovely shaded parks, a farmers market, and even a rum distillery.

Marina club house
Free beer at happy hour
Brunswick’s Old City Hall
One of the beautiful town squares
Richland Rum Distillery
Dinner with Island Spirit and Painkiller

Ok, enough fun – we still need to prepare for hurricane season and the possibility of severe summer storms. We’ve got an open-close checklist that we’ve used for years, but with a new boat and new systems, we have to review it and modify it. Also, we’re staying in the water this summer instead of hauling out, so we need to prepare a bit differently for that too. Basically, our priorities are to fix as many leaks as possible before we leave the boat unattended, and to reduce the windage and add lots of dock lines so that when heavy storms do occur, there’s little to no damage. Fingers crossed!

Most of our portlights are leaking in heavy rain, so we are gradually removing one at a time, cleaning and scraping off all the old caulk and silicone, and rebedding each one cleanly. We’re getting better at it, but each one still takes about 6 hours from start to finish. It’s a lot of work, AND mess. And it leaves a hole in the boat for hours at a time – not good in spring rain storms! It will be worth it when we can be confident that the rain stays on the outside and we don’t have to worry about water damage to the wood or anything else on the interior.

We took down our jib and staysail, covered all hatches and portlights, flushed the engine and outboard, did oil changes, defrosted the fridge, wiped the entire interior with white vinegar to discourage mold, and fixed a link to the cockpit shower. There’s always plenty of tasks that require Mike to squeeze into a small space!

Investigating a leak from the mast
Mike in a box!

The bottom got a little too close…

They say there are two kinds of sailors on the ICW – those who have run aground, and those who are lying and say they haven’t. Just north of St Augustine, we joined the first club.

Surprisingly cold on the water
Dredgers = shoaling

It was a long, fairly boring day of putt-putting along. Capt Mike was at the helm, and I had gone below to get a head start on dinner prep. Suddenly, I heard the sound of the engine change dramatically and I popped my head up into the cockpit like a groundhog to find out what was going on. Capt. Mike just had enough time to say “I slowed way down ’cause I’ve got to figure out where the deep water is” when we stopped cold. Dinner forgotten, I grabbed an extra copy of the charts for reference, and I scanned around us for red and green channel markers. In the meantime, Capt. Mike had thrown the throttle into reverse and gave it a ton of revs, hoping to simply back off whatever shoal we had hit. No luck. The 2-knot current was pushing the stern into even shallower water. We tried swinging the boom way out to one side to tilt the boat over and hopefully to slide off. Nope. Mike dropped the dinghy into the water and tried to push the bow into deeper water like a little tug boat, while I steered from the helm. Nope. I started talking about BoatUS towing service and the captain shushed me. “We’ll stay here until high tide if we have to, but we don’t need to call for a tow”

A giant motor yacht passed us just as we got stuck and hailed us on the radio. “Have you run aground? Need anything? Ok, good luck” Gee, thanks. A small sport fishing boat came by with two huge outboard motors and offered to help tow us off. So once again, I took the helm, Capt. Mike moved the dinghy around to port midships and started pulling in reverse using our 20hp outboard. The fishing boat stayed on the forward starboard side and pulled with their two 75hp motors. Between the towing, our own engine revs, and a few short bursts of the bow thruster, we were off and floating! Unfortunately, I almost swamped Capt. Mike in the dinghy as we went from zero to 5.5 knots in an instant and he was still holding onto the boat going backwards. Oops! All’s well that ends well, and we thanked the fishermen warmly and continued on our way. For the rest of the trip north, we both stayed on high alert any time the charts said “shoal warning”… even when the channel markers were in plain sight.

We anchored off Fernadina Beach on Amelia Island that night to lick our wounds. Feeling like ourselves again the next day we went ashore to experience all that the annual Shrimp Festival had to offer. Garlic shrimp, shrimp quesadilla, shrimp and corn boil, a parade of decorated shrimp boats. Even people wearing big orange shrimp hats. We ate and danced and walked and had an excellent time, topping it all off with some of the best upscale Mexican food we’d had in ages, enjoying the night out with our friends Hayden and Radeen on Island Spirit.

Patriotic Shrimp Boat
Garlic shrimp
Color-coordinated shrimp girl
Enjoying the live music
Dinner with Island Spirit

From Amelia Island, it was just a short hop north to Cumberland National Seashore, which I’d always wanted to visit. From the anchorage, it’s an easy dinghy ride to the park where most guests arrive on a ferry from St Mary’s, Georgia. Yay – we made it to Georgia! I really enjoyed getting the chance to stretch my legs on the shady park trails where I saw the cutest armadillo, wild horses, and even a glimpse of a bobcat! This park has a little bit of everything: natural beauty, the ruins of the Carnegie’s summer home, a long white sand beach. And we’d almost have to be backpacking and camping to be able to cover the many miles of trails. It was the perfect final stop on our floating ICW vacation!

Exploring the ICW

After our busy stay in the boat yard in Fort Pierce, it felt great to be back on the water and on the move! We slowly made our way up the Inter Coastal Waterway, or ICW, from Fort Pierce to Brunswick GA exploring local communities along the way and getting familiar with our boat systems and electronics as we went. The ICW is generally protected water compared to traveling in the open ocean, and to keep in the narrow channel we mostly motor. Each day, we passed several bridges and it’s always a challenge to plan ahead, researching which bridges are tall enough for us to pass safely underneath and which we have to time just right around scheduled draw bridge openings.

It’s surprisingly challenging to get used to helming a new boat! Absolutely everything works differently than on Sanitas – the throttle, the chart plotter, the autopilot, the AIS – luckily, the previous owners left all the owners manuals behind, so I spent a few hours each day studying up and figuring things out. Capt Mike mostly prefers the “Just hit all the buttons and see what happens” approach 😆 We each learn in our own way, right?

The best part about being back in the USA, is that we get to catch up with friends and family we haven’t seen in person in ages! Our first fun friend meetup was just north of Melbourne Florida where we had lunch with Paul Brickman and his family. We’ve been friends since before Mike and I were married, back when I used to spend weekends at Dewey Beach just after college – talk about ancient history! So fun to catch up over a yummy lunch at Grills Riverside, and we were so grateful to them for bringing us a few groceries.

We took our first day off since leaving Stewart with a beach day at New Smyrna Beach ⛱️ The city has a great “on-demand” bus system. We walked to a stop only about two blocks from the dinghy dock and caught a bus that basically could bring us anywhere we wanted within city limits, so of course I voted for the beach! It’s a loooooong white sand beach with cars allowed to drive and park on it – how weird is that? We walked for miles on the hard sand before haggling over the price of beach chairs and umbrella and enjoying a lovely little picnic on the beach. Now that’s more like it! Now I remember why I bought a boat! I was starting to forget with all those boat projects!

Another couple of days of putt putting along, and we made it to St Augustine.

St Augustine is a beautiful city – the oldest in America – and a $30 mooring ball at the municipal marina is the best deal in town. We explored the historic fort and lovely Flagler College, did a big grocery shopping trip, and went out for ice cream with cruising friends. We even had the chance to connect with sailing friends we last saw almost five years ago in the Bahamas! We had a lovely sushi picnic with Natalia and Andrey on SV Bella Vita under a full moon 🌙